Sleeper Train from Shangri La to Kunming

Sunday September 28, 2007

I just finished watching the LSU victory over Miss. State virtue of the internet even though it was 10 am Sunday here. I arrived in Kunming at 7 am after a 14 hr sleeper bus from Shangri La. This was my first sleeper bus experience and not the most fun that I have had in China. The bus is lined with upper and lower beds. What I did not know was that in the back is one giant bed which is for 5 people. Guess who got the middle space in the giant bed. If I had known better I would have requested a single bed. The entire night is made up of jockeying for position and waiting for the next bathroom break, since there is no bathroom on the bus.

I seem to be the only foreigner on most buses and most trains in China. I know visas have been hard to get for some. I was walking around the bus on our first break when a little boy about eight asked me what I was doing on the bus. I quickly realized that most travelers have their own buses and transportation and that the Chinese almost never have contact with foreigners on the local buses. Most of the Chinese that know any English will try and practice it with me when they can. Even walking down the street people will start up a conversation just to hear English.

After arriving, I quickly went and rented a dorm room at a hostel. My next sleeper bus to Luang Prabang, Laos leaves at 6:30 pm today and will last for 32 hrs. Yes, I requested a single bed. The hostel gives me a chance to shower and rest even though it will be shortlived.

Tomorrow a new country and new experiences.

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the things you did. "
Mark Twain

Shangri La

After Tiger Leaping Gorge I caught the minivan for the 3 hr trip to Shangri La (3200 meters high). Most tourists do not come this far up and this is as close as you can get to Tibet without actually being there. Most people here are Tibetian. One of my favorite things in Shangri La was that the old and young dance in the city square for 2-3 hrs every night. It is not a performance but done for pure enjoyment. The pictures also include the countryside on the way to Shangri La , Old Towne, a monastery with the Golden Prayer Wheel and an art cafe.

Tiger Leaping Gorge

I caught the first bus to Quiatou (chow toe) which is the beginning of the trek. I arrived at noon and headed out for the 5-6 hr uphill trek which ascends over 900 meters. It was very hot and I soon began to realize that I had not been in the mountains since last November in New Zealand. Many tourist were riding horses with guides up the mountain. A local with a horse kept following me up the mountain asking every five minutes if I wanted to ride the horse. He just knew I would not make it but I disappointed him. Most of the trip lies along a narrow ridge which follows the river giving great views of the gorge. The path is narrow enough that you do not dare lose your concentration. There are no guardrails along the path. I spent the night at the Tea Hoyse (yes that is how they spelled tea house). I woke up early the next morning and left before it began getting too hot. The second days trek was mostly downhill and involved walking under one waterfall. The scenery was truly spectacular.

Pictures soon.

Lijang (Old Towne)

Lijang's Old Towne was even more beautiful than Dali and even more touristy. No Tibet travel permits here either. I leave tomorrow to hike Tiger Leaping Gorge which I am sure will be one of the highlights of my trip so far. The first 2 pictures were taken very early in the morning. The streets are packed with tourists most of the day and night.

Dali (Old Towne)

Took the 1 1/2 hr bus to Guilen, then took 18 hr overnight train to Kunming, walked across the street and took 6 hr bus to Dali. I specifically went to Dali because word on the street was that there was cheap trips to Tibet. No Tibet trips in Dali I quickly found out. Old Towne was beautiful but very touristy. Go to Lijang tomorrow.

Pictures later.